Barge Date:  07-28-2021

Going North, Still Having Fun

We are making progress on the Bourgogne.  We will reach Montbard this week and will likely lay up for a few days.  It is a larger town. Marianne is happy: two book stores. But let's look back at where we have been.

We left Pouilly-en-Auxois and it seems like we have gotten in a routine of doing locks in the morning and exploring in the afternoon. The locks are all down hill and lock travel is quicker in this direction than when coming up. Water seems to exit faster than when it is filling a lock.  Doing 10-12 locks a day when we are moving forward.  One day we did 19 (I am told this as I don't remember). The lock workers have been great and they seem to work well together. They are moving on motorbikes and electric cars.

When we stop for the day we are normally near a small village. Most of these villages must have a history that goes back years and so do the buildings. It is fun to just roam the streets looking for locations that don't show modern "stuff" and take a picture.  This is what we are doing when we snap a picture but you might not get the context by just seeing our photos.

In the village of Marigny-le-Cahouet we were told by a lock worker that there was a chateau that has been in a number of movies. We had no idea where it was and I had to ask a shopkeeper. Straight ahead, bear right at the monument then take the Rue du Chateau. We ended up out in the countryside and woods but found it. Privately owned (it appeared deserted) and not open to visitors.  But we took a number of pictures and then looked at Google Earth for a topside look. Not many people get a moat around their house.

I am guessing this little foot bridge has been here since the Middle Ages.

When I get to take pictures from the barge or walking around doing landscapes it is a shame that you don't get the total view I see in my panorama. The land on both sides of this canal is very beautiful. Always sloping high hills on both sides that show you how it is being used. It is wheat and oat time and sometimes we see the combines and sometimes we see the straw they have made.  The farmers are also making hay. Higher up the slope you see pastures that have been used for hundreds of years occupied by sheep and Charolais cattle. It all goes so well together.

This is France and as we all know the Frenchman is always looking for romance, especially a second or third woman.  This lock worker thinks he can win Marianne's heart by giving her some flowers picked along the canal. You will have to look at her record of the event by tuning in to her collection of pictures and thoughts here. Let me know how it ends.

Regardless of his intentions he and his crew did a great job with the locks.

Since we have been moving the barge this year there has been no wind, until recently.  This can play havoc with getting the barge in through the open lock doors.  More so now since we are always sitting high for these dropping locks thus the wind sees you. One day we were left by the keepers as they went off for lunch. With the wind I was hoping to just blow to a side of the canal and eat lunch too. But the blow was from our stern and trying to get to a side had the barge tipping because of low clearance (we call this water draft). The wind just kept pushing us towards the lock.  I could keep the engine going and control the barge that way but I wanted to eat lunch too. My final decision was to put the bow on the wall to the right of the lock doors and push the stern to the canal side and stake out. Now it is always my hope that when you are within spitting distance to the lock all the bottom gunk will be cleaned out and there will be a clean wall. Not here, at least. But I got the stern close enough to throw over a stake and sledge hammer and tied on.

Now it is at this point I should say that we had been seeing the same couple biking along the canal and had even spoken with them. Belgians. Like others along the canal, seeing a boat use a lock can be interesting so they watched and talked.  Andre (sorry, don't know how to do the accent on this PC) and Benedicte. (boy, could I use that accent with these names).

I spoke with Andre and learned he and his wife are retired and are traveling in a VW van, a hippie van, going from site to site and riding their bikes. Both looked very healthy from this adventure.

So lunch is concluded, the workers have returned and Andre and Benedicte roll up again. I have my doubts about the stern; will it come off the muck or not by pushing with a long pole?  I can't get it to move. Stuck. The bow is no problem as it has swung towards the lock doors. But with the wind still from our stern there will be some questions.  I gave the barge some power, Marianne pushed away with the pole, and we could pull off but the wind wanted to play with us. So with stern free and bow wandering I threw a line to Andre and he was able to pull the bow so that I could go in the lock. Without his help we would have needed to find other helpers. Now Andre and Benedicte can go home to Brussels and come up with an interesting story when someone asks, "What did you do on your vacation?" Thanks to our Belgian friends.  And we did see them again further down the canal.

André and Bénédicte (I did learn how to do those accents)

We are moored tonight in Venarey-les-Laumes. Lock keeper suggested a full day here. Yesterday I took the bike to get some store supplies and today we were to visit the site of the last Gauls vs Romans battlefield. Have your mask? Check. Have the phone? Check. Umbrella and raincoat ? Check. Walk 3km and what do we need? Vaccination stuff.  First time we have been called out. Probably because it was a place with fifty or more people. We had some of what they wanted but not all so we gave up and went back to the boat (after doing some shopping at the Super U). Live and learn.

Here at our mooring there is an interesting barge in front getting a good paint job. Looks nice and then you see the door and the little warning tag. These Dutch. They want to take this boat out where the big waves play. Probably if they roll over they are air tight.

Shoving off in the AM.

Warning sign on door says "To Be Kept Closed at Sea".

Barge Date:  07-22-2021

Sitting on Top

We are in Pouilly-en-Auxois, the highest point in the French canal system. Google Maps say the elevation is 384 meters. There are several reservoirs nearby that help feed the water that the canal needs and uses up as everything flows down hill. If these reserves of water are depleted then the canal must close.  This has happened frequently in the last several years as France has faced lower than normal rain fall.

A not too sophisticated measuring device is nearby and I guess that it is used to know when to add water. I am sure I saw a slug of water enter this morning in the basin where we are. Big ripples  crossed the basin.

The canal was completed in the 1830s having taken about 50 years to create. The tunnel that is just off the basin is 3.4km long and took 5 years to make. We went through this tunnel several days ago.  Very uniform in shape from end to end. While I tell myself to concentrate at all times it would appear that I touched the tunnel wall several times on the port side. Just the top edge of the metal roof trim touched.  No damage and until I looked for it I was not sure I did touch. If done again I think I will attempt a better way to move the stern when needed.  A local tour boat goes through the tunnel twice each day; four trips back and forth. See video at the bottom.

We have been through 76 locks on this canal. There are 189 in total so more to see.  We will be going down now so will be finding filled locks that will drop us several meters each time.

The tunnel does not have a tow path; just water up to the walls.  In the old days, we are told, barges had to be pulled through using hand-held poles that latched on to brackets on the walls.  This could take up to eight hours to get through (plus 2 hours for lunch, I would guess). Then an electric tug was used to pull trains of barges through; then it took "only" 2 hours.

Pouilly-en-Auxois is a nice town but a hike from the basin.  A number of restaurants, bakeries and other stores. Had some sorbet today; cassis flavor. Almost too powerful.

Did some cleaning on the boat and in the engine room.  Greased the parts from the wheel to the rudder. Not a quick job; I must crawl way back into the stern which is a most uncomfortable place.

Wow.  A boat just entered the basin from where we came from.  Third boat we have seen this year.

We leave tomorrow morning to do 13 locks. Hoping for a restaurant where we will tie up but that is a question mark.

The previous stop we made had the benefit of a castle high on the ridge above the town. Actually a small village is there too.  Made for some nice pictures.  This scene is pictured on Hart Massey's second book about Lionel and travels in Europe. We walked through the port village and enjoyed the houses and farms.

For those with French lessons.

Wonderful lock house. Had a line-up of old farm rakes too.

Lamp purchased last year now in operation.

Tunnel exit for us.

 

Barge Date:  07-16-2021

A Few Locks, Stop, a Few Locks, Stop

 

 

 

Don't forget Marianne's FB site for lots more photos. https://www.facebook.com/BargeAdventure/

 

We have been in the rainy village of Gissey-sur-Ouche for a day and half doing little if anything. Just us
and 2 large barges tied up at the VNF. Told by our new VNF friend that these barges are owned by VNF. Why they would need such items I do not know. Maybe seized in a drug raid.

 Since we entered this canal we have had VNF workers traveling with us to set up the lock as we approach and to re-set the lock after we pull out.

This means they control how hard and fast the water is let into the lock; we are going up hill so they are always filling the lock for us. Here is a video of a typical rush of water. Is it too much too fast? For our barge, its weight and shape, you can see that it holds a steady place on the wall. The water rushes past us, hits the rear doors then bounces back up the other wall.  Sometimes there can be a different story but for the most part we seem to handle the water well.  But you have to stay with the rope just in case; no wandering about. I suppose if we asked for a slower fill they would do it.

 

 

 

 

 

A few other updates. Here is a picture of the finished bow mast. Kind of a busy place. If you look
closely you can see the radio antenna going up the mast then extending above it. Mast should never come close to the top of a tunnel or bridge.  I just have to keep an eye and ear out for those close calls. Click on the picture for the original size if that helps.

 

 

 

On the inside I have installed two old brass lamps in the wheelhouse.  For looks only. But a bit interesting.

We found our first canal travelers today.  Mark and Annie on Anna. They are taking their time going south to have their boat taken into a dry dock for inspection.  They have two big fluffy dogs on board.

Took a walk around La Bussiere-sur-Ouche, our current stop. Here are some pictures.

There is an old abbey close to the canal that is now a hotel and restaurant.  Only for the high rollers.  A nice suite will go for 600 euros per night.  Dinner starts at 99 euros and one of their wine bottles, they suggest for you, is only 290 euros. The grounds are very nice but you have to look over a wall when it is low enough to see the sights.  Front gate is controlled from inside and they obviously have cameras to watch who might sneek in. I waved.

Have stopped for the day in Pont d'Ouche. Supposed to have two eating places;  found both closed due to COVID. No bakery. The marina that is here is lacking, but new owners announced for 2022 who will also run one of the restaurants.

Will do 11 locks next day.

 

Barge Date:  07-14-2021

On Through the Rain

Strange, one day to the next. Since day one on this canal we have had weeds everywhere.  There is normally a channel up the middle of the water that is mostly clear but the sides are deep with long stringy plants. Many canals in France have this problem.  For some boats it interferes with the engine cooling. At a minimum it takes more  power to just go up through the channel as the weeds retard the flow of water to the prop.

But the morning leaving Plombieres the water is totally clear.  And it has been through the next 15 locks. Why is this the case? Beats me. But it is a lot nicer to have this clear water ahead of you.

The boat is working well.  Still can't blow the horn.  Minor problem with the electric toilet but that is understood and under control. Been asking for some help with the battery monitoring system and hope to have that under control soon too. Been cool and grey today so I started the diesel fireplace and it lit up like a charm. Both bikes now have working tires and are ready to go.

Last night we had a meal across from us on the canal at some fancy place. The plate art work was interesting with the use of wild flowers and pea compote.  The food was just so so.

Today we did 9 locks by 1pm and then took the lock worker on board to have our lunch.  He works for VNF for six months of the year and then he tries to write movie scripts.  He is giving it a good try.

July 14 in France today; all day in fact. We are in a little country village, it is raining and we probably will not see or hear fireworks. We will hold here tomorrow since it is supposed to keep raining, and then move ahead. Big tunnel coming up soon.

New view from the wheelhouse without the dingy.